(Photo is a painting I drew on a surfboard made for me in San Diego long ago)
I used to be so eager to improve my surfing that I'd write it in my notebook every time and set daily goals. There was no YouTube back then, so I'd buy DVDs at local shops and watch them so many times that the gloss would wear off, haha.
Surfing is getting started Read More »
One of the ways to overcome fear, learned through surfing.
First of all, 'nervousness' and 'fear' are different.
'Nervousness' can sometimes stem from the 'hope' to successfully accomplish something you've worked hard for.
Fear, nervousness, and how to overcome them (surfing story) Read More »
California, San Diego, Hawaii, Honolulu in Oahu, I often went surfing alone. I always preferred being by myself.
When things don't feel right, and surfing... Read More »